Assembly & Operating Instructions for the GlassPasser Cabinet

Assembly & Operating Instructions for the GlassPasser Cabinet

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Your GlassPasser™ cabinet has been shipped partially disassembled to protect it against damage during shipping. Assembly requires only a few basic tools and should take about a half hour to accomplish.

In the following order, you should
(1) install the ADJUSTABLE FEET,
(2) insert the SUPPORT BAR,
(3) install the interior ROLLERS on the support bar,
(4) fasten the SUPPORT BAR to the frame,
(5) mount the LAMPS,
(6) install the SIDE PLATES, and
(7) attach the MYLAR WINDOW SHIELD.

BEFORE YOU START, carefully read pages 1 & 2 and gather the following items:

1. A small flat-head screwdriver.
2. A Phillips screwdriver.
3. Two adjustable (Crescent) wrenches, or one Crescent wrench (or set of box wrenches) and a ratchet set.


A. After you have removed the cabinet from the pallet, set the support bar aside and remove the CARDBOARD PARTS BOX from the cabinet.

B. Identify all parts:

2. Three ROLLER assemblies.
3. Two SIDE PLATES with felt gasket material marked "R" & "L."
4. Flexible MYLAR WINDOW SHIELDS, with double-sided tape.
5. GOOSE-NECK LAMPS with magnetic base.

C. Locate all hardware:

1. Six 1/2" long HEX-HEAD BOLTS with LOCK WASHERS.
3. Four small 3/8" long SCREWS with LOCK NUTS.
4. Four small 1/2" long self-tapping SHEET METAL SCREWS (100 DC Vacuum).
6. A small tube of clear silicone rubber sealer.
7. Also included, for your convenience, are two spare BLACK KNOBS for the slot seal brackets.


A.Screw the ADJUSTABLE FEET into the bottoms of the cabinet legs. This can be accomplished by tilting the cabinet sideways about 4". To be safe, tilt the cabinet against a wall, or have a friend hold the cabinet securely while you attach the feet.

B.Attach the SUPPORT BAR by loosening the knobs on all three SLOT SEAL BRACKETS and slide them back until they are fully open.
Carefully lower the SUPPORT BAR down into the cabinet through the top slot, and allow it to rest on the cabinet frame. You may want a friend to lend a hand with this step.
Bolt the three interior ROLLER ASSEMBLIES to the SUPPORT BAR using the six 1/2" long HEX-HEAD BOLTS and LOCK WASHERS.
Drop the two 4-1/2" BOLTS through the holes in the BAR, using a FLAT WASHER under each bolt head. You will have to compress the BAR against the BLACK FOAM SEAL in order for the bolt holes in the BAR and FRAME to line up.
Put a LOCK WASHER and NUT on the bottom of each bolt, and tighten both sides of the BAR to the FRAME.

C. Next, install the MAGNETIC BASE LAMPS in the cabinet on any wall. Feed the cords out through the slot. Leave enough slack inside to allow the LAMPS to be placed anywhere in the cabinet without having the cords stretched across the work area. However, be certain the switch located on the cords is outside the cabinet, otherwise, the abrasive grit will jam the switches in short order.

Place the RUBBER GROMMET on the cords and slip it into the U-shaped slot in the left and right SIDE PLATES.

D.Using the 3/8" long SCREWS and LOCK NUTS, attach both SIDE PLATES to the outside of the cabinet where the BAR exits each side. When installed over the BAR, the felt material faces up on the SIDE PLATE.

It is best to put the bolts through from the inside of the cabinet so that the threads don't get jammed with abrasive dust in the event you later wish to remove the plates. You can reach both sides by putting one arm through the bottom of the armholes in front of the cabinet.

E.With the CLEAR SILICONE RUBBER SEALER, seal all around the BAR where it exits the cabinet. Let the silicone set for several hours.

F.Stick one of the CLEAR MYLAR WINDOW SHIELDS to the inside of the cabinet window. Clean the window first.

G.The four small 1/2" SELF-TAPPING SCREWS are for the EXHAUST HOSE ADAPTOR, which is supplied with your vacuum exhaust (100 DC Vacuum).

GlassPasser™ Operating Instructions


Cabinet Stability

Rock-steady stability is especially important when you are working with very large sheets of glass. It is a good idea to place the cabinet with its back against a wall. Leave enough space on each side of the cabinet to allow for the full length of the longest sheet of glass you anticipate using.
Use the adjustable feet to accommodate any unevenness in the floor. Readjustment may be necessary if you move the cabinet. These adjustable feet may also be used to raise or lower the overall working height.

Vacuum Hook-Up (100 DC Vacuum)

Attach the vacuum hose adapter (ferrule) that is supplied with the vacuum over the 2-1/4" hole on either side of the cabinet using the four self-tapping screws that come with the cabinet. A small amount of silicone sealer applied to the base of the adapter will prevent dust leakage.


The magnet-based lamps are designed to be moved about inside the cabinet to provide optimal lighting for any given situation.
HINT: Turn off as many room lights as possible when you are blasting. This will reduce reflections on the window and increase visibility.


If you are using the cabinet with the arm-hole brushes, find some rubber or tightly-woven cloth gloves that fit and give you the combination of sensitive feel and secure grip that you like. Dishwashing gloves work quite well. Experiment with different gloves; they really are an underrated link in the blasting system as far as comfort and endurance are concerned.
A set of adapters that allow for the use of gauntlet-type gloves instead of brushes is available for those who prefer to work totally free of any direct contact with the dust inside the cabinet. The adapters replace the brushes and provide an absolute seal against abrasive seepage from the cabinet.

Blaster Hose

There is a hole on each side of the cabinet for the blaster hose. Most right-handed people prefer the hose to enter from the right side, and vice versa for lefties. The hole that is not used for the hose should remain plugged.
In order to feed the hose through the hole, the nozzle-end assembly will have to be removed. When replacing it, be certain that it is properly secured in the hose before using the blaster.
Feed enough hose into the cabinet to make a loop. This will give you much more flexibility and freedom of movement than if you tried to constantly adjust the hose length by pushing and pulling it through the hole. However, the best solution to the stiff sand hose is to use a Glastar FLEXIBLE HOSE ASSEMBLY. This will make your blasting much less difficult.

Fold-Down Work Table

The fold-down work table is a real convenience when working on small pieces that do not require the use of the pass-through slots. When large sheets are being blasted, the work table folds up against the back of the box where it is held in place by a stretchable rubber latch.

Using The Pass-Through Feature

An 8' long sheet will balance on the rail if it is inserted through the cabinet up to the far side of the box. Don't just set a sheet on the end of the support bar and let go; TEST THE BALANCE FIRST. If additional support is needed, adjustable tripods are available through your local tool house.
The slot seal brackets on both sides and the top are slotted and held in place with knobs on the outside of the cabinet. This feature allows you to relieve the pressure of the gasket when the glass is being repositioned.
To release the gaskets so that the glass can be moved, loosen the knobs slightly and pull the brackets toward you.
To re-form the seal after the glass has been moved, push the brackets back toward the glass, snugging down the knobs as you go. They don't have to be tight, the only snug. Make sure the back of the glass is up against the rear gaskets.
The foam that is used for the slot gaskets will disappear like magic if you blast directly at it. Keeping your blast zone away from the gaskets will greatly extend their working life. Also, the farther from the gaskets you blast, the less abrasive leakage is likely to occur.
When blasting flat glass (whether in a cabinet or not), it is a wise practice to cover the backside with clear resistance in order to prevent inadvertently scratching or frosting an expensive piece. Since the foam slot gaskets will pick up abrasive particles, it is especially important to protect the glass when using the pass-through feature. It's cheap insurance.

Care And Maintenance

The GlassPasser™ requires very little maintenance. The parts that are most commonly replaced are the plastic window shield, the window gaskets, and the foam slot gaskets.

Replacing The Mylar Window Shield

Over time, the mylar shield inside the window will acquire a frosted surface as the result of abrasive ricocheting against it. The rate at which this occurs will depend on your individual blasting style, but it will need to be replaced on a regular basis.
Remove the old shield, and carefully clean the inside surface of the window with a damp paper towel. Remove the release paper from the tape and press the new shield into place.
It is a good idea to keep a couple of spares on hand.

Replacing The Window Gaskets

These gaskets are standard 3/4" wide x 1/2" thick light-duty foam weatherstripping which is available at any hardware store. Pull off the section you want to replace, clean the surface, apply the replacement strip, and trim the ends flush.

Replacing The Slot Gaskets

With care, the foam slot gaskets can last for years. However, since the need for replacement could arise, it is wise to keep a replacement set on hand.
Remove the bracket and tear off the old foam. Scrape the bracket clean and spray the bonding surfaces of the bracket with spray adhesive (3M brand "77", or something similar). Seat the foam squarely within the bracket and flush at each end. Put the foam in place while the adhesive is still wet and let it dry for an hour before using.

Replacing The Window

Replace with only original factory parts.

Important Safety Considerations For Sandblasting
Be certain that you follow carefully all the manufacturers' instructions for setting up your compressor, blaster, and exhaust. Double- and triple-check everything before blasting, paying particular attention to connections, pressure gauges, and valve settings.
ALWAYS WEAR EYE PROTECTION, ESPECIALLY WHEN THE DOORS ARE OPEN!! EVEN WHEN THE BLASTER IS "OFF", IT CAN STILL SPIT OUT ABRASIVE PARTICLES! Treat the blaster as you would a gun: it is always loaded so don't point it at anything you don't want to be blasted. It should be treated with respect and handled soberly.
WEAR A DUST RESPIRATOR, especially when the cabinet is open or the abrasive is being recycled back into the pressure pot. A good respirator is a worthwhile investment - those little paper and rubberband masks are pretty useless for sandblasting.